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2009 12 30 Lijiang
Ancient Town of Lijiang


Stepping into the old town of Lijiang is like taking a walk back in time. The old cobbled stone pavements were polished smooth and shining by thousands of pair of feet over the past few hundred years. Naxi women are dressed in their traditional garments with 7-star ornaments and many still live in the old houses inside the old town. Water from the melting snow-capped mountain and glaciers still spills out of the Black Dragon Pool and pass the old town in innumerable brooks flowing thorough the streets and alley. And the water is incredibly clean despite the old town being overly commercialised with endless bars and restaurants converted from the rows of old houses. And then the loud music jolt you back to your senses and reality.


The old town of Lijiang, a Unesco World Heritage Site is a delightful maze of cobbled street, rickety old wooden buildings and now, thousands of tourists. Its streets are filled with tourists from morning to late night with bars blasting the latest music. But beneath all these are wonderful and interesting subjects waiting to be discover and photographed.


Many of the old houses still retained their original architecture designs and structures. Li Jia DaYuan Inn where we stayed is made up of many old woodworks that dated back to a couple hundred years. And the guesthouse is currently run by a 12th generations Li, a hospitable businesswoman who is only too happy to tell you all about the old Lijiang.

The old town of Lijiang is not very big and can be easily covered on foot but careful planning is required to ensure you are at the right place and the right time to get that special shots.


Start early just before sunrise for a bird-eye view of the old town. The Wanggou Lou Pagoda sitting on higher ground offers a panoramic view of the old town. Or climb up to the rooftop of your guesthouse if it has a balcony. These are great for both sunrise and sunset. Wanggou Lou charges 15Yuan for entrance and expect you to produce the 40Yuan Lijiang Ancient Town Pass as well.


After sunrise when the sun is high enough to light up part of the streets go eastward from the Square Market or Sifang Jie. Look out for the alley that faces the sun and wait for some Naxi women in their traditional dress to walk pass. As the shops are not open at this hour there is less tourists to spoil your compositions. By mid-morning the Square Market will be a hive of activities with Naxi men and women in traditional dress dancing in formations. But you will have to push your way through the many tourists to get really good shots of them dancing and singing folks song.


Once it gets dark the areas around the old town lighted up with hundreds of red lanterns turned into a different world but the endless flow of tourists walking pass within the 3 main streets make it difficult to set up tripod for slow shutter shots. Stay away from the main street of bars and restaurants and look for smaller alley. With less people to block your view you can take your time to compose your photos without someone tripping over your tripod or wanting to borrow it for their compact cameras.


For some cultural photography booked yourself a ticket to the Dayan Naxi ancient music performance. The Dayan Naxi group comprises of musicians with many of them above 80years old offers some great photos opportunities during their nightly performance. Dressed in colourful long gowns and other ethnic costumes with their assortment of musical instruments they make interesting photos despite being dimly lit and no flash allowed.





For some landscapes and nature photography take a trip out to the nearest mountain. Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which is only 15km away from the town of Lijiang, is a popular and most photographed place in this part of Yunan. This is another must visit place even if it¡¯s just for a day trip but more days are required if you wanted a more comprehensive shoot of Jade Dragon Snow mountain. At 5596m it¡¯s the highest in Yunan and have a numbers of scenic places for photography. Like most mountainous places in China hiking is a must and day trip is just not enough to cover all the different scenic spots ranging from Tibetan temple to meadows and glaciers. Trekking can be very strenuous as most parts of these mountains are located 3000m above sea levels. For the less fit horses are available for the longer treks.



 
2009 12 14 Lanzhou, Ganshu

 The curve of the dragon











I can almost imagine the roars of the imperial army as they rushed toward me and suddenly right in front is Jacky Chan. The next moment sound of camera shutters releases brought me back instantly. And my friends call out to the donkey cart driver to backup and come down the narrow passage between the huge cliffs again. Once more we got ready in position at this famous location where Jacky Chan filmed his movie the ¡®Myth¡± and also many other Chinese productions as well.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yinma Gorge is the largest of the gorges in the Yellow River Stone Forest National Park. ¬The Yellow River winds from west to east with the Stone Forest in one side and opposite the river is a small village. Thus the area where the river winds through is called ¡®Lung Wan¡¯ or Dragon¡¯s Curve. The village itself is a typical dusty place with very basic amenities similar to most of the other places here. The guesthouse we stayed for the night is a simple village home with no hot water and toilet is a shack out in the open. The people who come here are usually photographer who doesn¡¯t mind what¡¯s lacking in the village, as they are more interested in the surrounding landscape.



















I can pictured this place will be much more photogenic during summer and autumn when the rows and rows of apple and red date trees are ready for harvest. Winter is cold and dry making it very dusty and what¡¯s left are rows of leafless trees under a hazy sky.
The nearby hill provides a panoramic view of the river as it winds round the village. And it¡¯s best to shoot this during sunrise as the warm morning sunlight turned the yellow gorge into shades of golden brown. This stretch of the Yellow River is surprisingly clean and clear. After the morning shoot you can hire a donkey cart to take you into the gorge that stretches for about 4km inside. Later part of the morning is better for taking pictures inside the gorge of Stone Forest as the towering cliffs blocked off the too early morning sun. As we were there during winter the place is deserted which made is easier for us stop anywhere we like to take photos. We were the only group inside the gorge and occasionally locals passed by in their motorcycle, which seem out of place as horses and donkeys would fit this place much better.




















Our donkey cart owner was one of the extras in the ¡°Myth¡± and was eager to tell us all about the shoot and the locations where the action scenes were shot. And thus we made him drives his donkey cart through the same narrow passage a few times for us to take pictures. ¡®One more time¡¯ my friend called out again and again till the wooden cart looks like it¡¯s going to break down as it rumble pass the rocky path.
























 

 

 

 

























 

 

 

 

















 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 














Lung Wan is about 2 hours drive from Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu. Lanzhou itself has nothing much to attract photographer except the old iron bridge, and during the Chinese New Year the bridge is decorated with hundreds of red lanterns and were brightly lighted up at night



 
2009 12 09 Faces Dec 09

December issue photos were shot in B/W using a Nikon D3X.The tonal details even in B/W of the D3X is amazing.